And it also offers a beautiful view.
© Courtesy of Travel + Leisure Courtesy of Schweitzer"This is it," said my husband, stopping halfway through our first walk of the day.
That statement is funny considering we arrived last night and it's 9:30am, but I disagree. I've only driven a few laps, but one thing I already know: Schweizer is a special place.
The ski resort, the largest ski resort in Idaho and Washington, is located in the Selkirk Mountains above the Sandpoint Lake community. Schweitzer is known for skiing and tending trees. But like many visitors here, I can't get over the view. Lake Pend Oreille, Idaho's largest lake, stretches from the foot of the mountains, and on a clear day you can see Canada (which is only an hour's drive north).
And then there's the fact that you can ski on the clouds.
From the top of the elevator, the sky was clear and the clouds sat at our feet. After a few turns we entered a foggy, misty world and then came out the other side. Boomski lives up to the hype: pure snow after a storm two days ago. And this is how Schweitzer differs from most mountains: it is not overgrown, and there is enough space for everyone to move around.
“The amount of terrain we have compared to the amount of ski trips we take is understated,” said Shawn Mirus, director of marketing and special events for Schweitzer and our ski partners for the day. "I can do more turns here in half a day than I can do all day a lot of other places."
This understated, earthy vibe is felt throughout. Schweizer seems like a hangout for the casual crowd, not a boogie spot for people who prefer shopping to skiing. It helps that the ski area has been independently owned since it opened in 1963 and is on private land. I also had the opportunity to speak with one of the founder's sons, Brendan Moon, a local ski coach.
"I've had the opportunity to ski some great spots, and if those spots are good, they're as good as anywhere else in the world," said Moon, whose father named Bud Shute in the Schweizer Cup. "When you see that lake view... it's really wow."
Moon, who probably knows the mountain better than anyone, said it was all about the wind filling parts of the mountain with snow. And Mirus, who is 17 years old, promises that everyone will find something for themselves. “You know it's not a very steep mountain, but it has a nice mix. There are plenty of pretty cool places for experienced skiers, but enough variety."
© Courtesy of Travel + Leisure Courtesy of SchweitzerHow to manage
If you buy online and in advance, a full day adult lift ticket will cost you $110. Select public holidays from 3:00 PM to 7:00 PM for $20 when pre-purchased online.
With the Icon pass you can reach Schweizer in seven days.
© Courtesy of Travel + Leisure Courtesy of SchweitzerWhere to stay
Right at the bottom of the ski area, there are several accommodation options, but it's hard to beat the Humbird, a new, 31-room boutique hotel within walking distance of all the fun. All rooms face southeast and have views of Pend Orai Lake, clean, modern and simple. For more, head to the hot tub and rooftop terrace or to the Conservatory, a shared meeting room with panoramic windows on three sides, a fireplace, games and a retractable projection screen.
Across the street you'll find the Selkirk Lodge, a classic inn-style hotel with a residential feel – think leather sofas and solid wood accents.
Those looking for a full kitchen and multiple bedrooms will want to book at White Pine Lodge, one, two, and three bedroom units with all the comforts of home: full kitchens, storage ready, and gas fireplaces. .
Places to eat
There's no better place on the mountain than the Sky House. From your seat you can enjoy 360 degree views including Washington, Montana and Canada on a clear day. There's a full-service bar and restaurant on one side, and a takeaway cafe on the other.
Sky House may have views, but Outback has atmosphere. The daily pick-up area at the rear of the Schweitzer is lined with retro skis and boards and has indoor and outdoor seating. (Also, the smoked brisket is supposed to be out of this world.)
Get off at Sandpoint, head to The Fat Pig (known for its ever-changing list of taps) or Trinity on City Beach for more upscale food by the beach.
When I asked a local Moon for a recommendation, he didn't hesitate: "Breakfast or lunch at Joel's," a downtown Mexican restaurant that he said was the "real deal."
© Courtesy of Travel + Leisure Courtesy of SchweitzerWhere to check
If you're looking for an unusual cocktail, head to Crow's Bench at the Humbird Hotel. You can relax in front of the fireplace, pull up a bar stool or sit outside and enjoy the view.
If you want to get the full Schweitzer experience, stick with the locals as they end the day with a beer (and maybe some cheese chips) at Pucci's Pub or a slice of Powder Hound pizza.
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